Installing plank paneling over existing wall

Make sure the corner trims are oriented as in the image below. Each inside corner trim piece has a full and a partial channel. The full channel will be against the back wall. Next, determine the length of the plank section. Measure from the inside lip of the previously installed plank to the inside edge of the pre-installed trim. See image at right for details. Insert the cut plank edge into the L-trim while holding the interlocking joint-edge away from its mating plank.

Insert the cut end into the edge of trim channel while holding other edge up image S. Push the plank into the edge trim while laying the plank down toward the substrate. When pushed into the trim entirely, the interlocking edges will be exposed image T. The plank can now be manually pulled into place. Pull the plank toward the interlocking joint image U. If necessary, rubber gloves can be used to increase grip friction with the surface of the plank.

Keep pulling until the interlocking joint is tight and in place image V. Use a damp rag or paper towel to clean off any sealant or adhesive that may have been squeezed onto the plank surface.

This will allow the trim to slide in place. Dispense a bead of sealant into the receiving channel of the trim and then press the trim into place.

Inside Corner Trim should be attached with adhesive to the substrate. Dispense a small bead of adhesive directly to the substrate corner or on the trim itself. Install by dispensing a thin bead of sealant on the Palisade side and a thin bead of adhesive on the substrate side.

Press trim into place. When attaching accessories like coat hooks, mirrors or lighting fixtures that will carry a heavy load, drill a hole through plank and fasten to the framing inside the wall. Trim Installation PDF.

READ this entire installation guide before beginning your installation. Image A. Image B. Image C. Image D. Image E. Image F. Image G. Image H. Image I. Image J. Image K. Checking to make sure you are keeping the plank parallel to the wall, continue nailing the plank until you get to the end of the plank. If your wall is longer than your planks, you will have needed to pre-cut the plank to have the end land on the nearest joist.

Face nail at the end to the joist. You will need to do the same on the next piece. Cut to length, butt it to the first plank, and face nail at the seam to the joist. Continue nailing the plank down the length of the wall into the joists as before. One easier method yet of installation is to buy end matched paneling. End matched paneling has a tongue and groove on the ends, eliminating the need for the seams of the two planks to be nailed into joists. Since the end of the board will be secured by the tongue and groove, it is now secure enough to eliminate pre-cutting the boards and securing the seams on a joist.

Not only does it make installation that much easier, it reduces waste. Install your next row by sliding the grooved side on the tongue of the first row. It can be butted up tight to the previous row. Nail the tongue to the nailing surface. Since the groove side is now secured by the tongue of the first row, there is now no need to face nail the board on the groove side.

Continue to install rows. Check every two-three rows that you are still parallel to the first row or the wall. It may be necessary to cheat on a row by not butting up tight to the previous row. This should not cause any problems as the tongue is milled wide enough to prevent any problems.

The space left at the last row usually will be narrower width of your plank. Measure for the width needed and cut along the length on the tongue.

You may need a crowbar to assist the board to slide into place. Nail this last board along the face of the board. While not a code, we recommend using a vapor barrier between the studs and the plywood paneling if there is spray foam insulation, since it adds another element of protection and preventative measures always cost less than repairs. Spray foam insulation may contain some liquids or moisture that over time potentially could damage wood or promote the growth of mold.

If your walls are not plumb, add furring strips to create a level, grid-like surface. These steps will also provide additional rigidity to your wall. Starting at the top, space strips horizontally 16" apart, using shims to line them up for the true vertical plumb.

Add a strip at the base. Starting in the corner, place vertical strips every four feet between your horizontal furring. Before you begin condition acclimate your panels to the room. With all panels in the interior space where they will be installed, stand them individually along the long edge or lay them flat with wood sticks spaced between them so that air circulates around each panel.

Let stand for at least 24 hours if installation is above grade and at least 48 hours if installation is below grade level. For all below grade applications, always use a vapor barrier between the outside walls and the studs. Remove all trim. Turn off the electricity before removing all receptacle covers. Once the panels have been acclimated to the room, place your paneling around the room in an attractive arrangement of grain, pattern or color.

Previewing this way is especially important when you usepanels with a definite direction in the pattern. Once you have a good aesthetic sequence, number the back of the panels in the order in which they will be attached to the wall. Use a 2-inch foam brush to stain or paint the wall surfaces at the point where your panels will be joined, using a color which matches the edges or grooves of your panels.

This will make the joints less noticeable. You will need to protect the floor from stain or paint.